Just two months after graduating from University, I packed up my life in Scotland and moved to Chambéry, a beautiful but often overlooked city in the Savoie department in the French Alps. Nestled between the towering peaks, the panoramic paysage is breathtaking (sometimes literally)- even after a year of living there.
Sitting at the crossroads between Italy and Switzerland, and with cities like Geneva, Lyon, and Annecy less than two hours away, Chambéry is a city steeped in culture. In particular, its close historical links with Turin are still reflected in the architecture and food, which have a strong Italian influence.
Before moving to Chambéry, I knew nothing about the city, but as soon as my foot hit the station platform, I knew this was a place I could call home. Fresh-faced and armed with a French & Linguistics degree, I took a job teaching English at Université Savoie Mont Blanc for the year. During my time there, I made sure to take full advantage of this chance to explore the city and surrounding areas- in all four seasons.
While I couldn’t possibly do this city justice in just one short article, I hope to capture some of the best bits, with some local how-to’s, tips and tricks for anyone planning a visit (or an immersive experience for those just reading along!)
To start off, let’s look at some of what Chambéry has to offer in Autumn and Winter. I will also be following up with a part two looking at Spring and Summer!
AUTUMN IN THE ALPS
A CITY IN BLOOM
Autumn has always been my favourite season, although in Chambéry, it’s more like what we consider summer in Scotland!
I first arrived in Chambéry in September, just as the trees began to shed their usual verdant foliage, transforming the city into a glowing palette of gold, orange, and crimson.
MARKETS
Every Saturday, the Marché des Halles is transformed into a bustling, vibrant market, filled with lines of stalls, offering everything from fresh fruit and veg to handmade jams, seafood, pasta, local wine, and of course- cheese!
Autumn is also the perfect season for spending time outdoors, whether in the mountains, by the lake, or exploring Chambery’s Old Town and the many traboules…
For any cheese lovers out there, here are some local favourites…
- Tomme de Savoie
- Beaufort
- Reblochon
- Saint Marcellin
- Comté
- Tome des Bauges
A smaller market also runs on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
BRUNCHES & BOULANGERIES
This guide wouldn’t be complete without a special mention for the boulangeries!
As luck would have it, my flat was right above a boulangerie, (completely unplanned, of course) so it was hard to resist the smell of fresh bread and pastries wafting up to my window…
Some of the best spots…
- Boulangerie Gambetta
- Hexagone (always queued out the door, and for good reason!)
- La Bellequoise
A DIFFERENT PACE OF LIFE
One of my favourite things about this city is the plentiful green spaces. The parks are filled with people all year-round; some reading or working, others chatting and catching up with friends on their lunch break. With Winter around the corner, I made the most of the Autumn months to soak up the last of the sun…
- Parc du Boisson Rond– one of the city’a larger parks, with a mix of open green space, a wooded area and river, an Alpine rose garden, as well as a 19th-century château, which once belonged to Benoît de Boigne!
- Parc du Vernay- much smaller, but a popular spot with locals as it’s right in the heart of the city. It also hosts a number of live music events and cultural festivals year-round!
- Parc de la Calamine
Live music in Parc du Vernay!
WINE NOT HAVE A GLASS?
Autumn is harvest time in the vineyards, making this the perfect time to try out some of Savoie’s very own wine!
If it’s white wine you’re after, try Apremont, Chignin, or Rousette de Savoie. If red is more you’re thing, Gamay, Persan or Mondeuse!
Don’t miss the ‘Fascinant Week-end’ in October, three days of wine-based events in the vineyards where you can learn all about winemaking!
Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!
Another important date in the French calendar is the release of the Beajoulais Nouveau! This takes place on the third Thursday of November each year, and celebrates the release of the Beaujolais Nouveau wine, fresh from the harvest!
If wine isn’t for you, don’t worry! Some other Savoisian favourites include Genepi, a traditional French herbal apéritif made from alpine plants, and La Verte du Mont-Blanc, a green beer infused with Genepi- delicious!
WINTER
Perhaps Chambery’s busiest season, Winter brings people from all over Europe who want to ski, snowboard, hike, or just enjoy the Alpine landscape. With many popular ski stations such as Courchevel in Les Trois Vallees, Méribel, and Val Thorens and just a short journey away, Chambéry is a haven for snowsports!
Val Thorens- just 1h30 from Chambéry!
Smaller stations, Aillons-Margeriaz and La Feclaz and Le Revard are also accessible by bus during the Winter months, offering a wide range of activities including alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and la luge (sledging!)
Raquette or raclette?
If you fancy a change from skiing, why not try out raquette à neige, aka snowshoeing! This allows you to hike in deep snow much more easily than with boots, letting you explore the mountains all year round!
Snowshoes can be hired from Les Aillons-Margériaz, La Féclaz, or Le Revard ski stations.
[Tip!] Hike from La Feclaz up to the famous Croix du Nivolet viewpoint overlooking Chambéry and surrounding mountains (including a distant view of Mont Blanc!)
If snowsports aren’t your thing, why not find a cosy restaurant and try out some Savoyarde cuisine!
As is typical in the Alps, Savoyarde cooking revolves heavily around cheese, bread, potatoes and meat. A firm favourite in the French Alps is raclette (from the French racler (‘to scrape’), a delicious cheese best enjoyed by heating it using a grill and then scraping onto potatoes, bread, and charcuterie. Originally a Swiss dish, it has also become a firm favourite in Savoyarde fare.
As a vegetarian, I was worried about what meat-free options would be available, but I found that restaurants were very accommodating (if in doubt- bread and cheese is always on offer!)
Some more winter warmers…
- Fondue Savoyarde (one of the most recognisable of all the Savoyard dishes)
- Tartiflette and croziflette!
If you can’t decide between raclette or racquette, why not do both?
Warm up after a day of alpine exploration in one of Chambery’s cosy restaurants!
Here are some of my favourites;
- Pinson
- La Maniguette
- Le Savoyard– for something more traditional
- Bleu de Toi Crêperie or Le Gulliver- for galette!
Hopefully this has given you a little taste of life in Chambéry- stay tuned for the next installment, where we’ll look at what’s on offer in Spring and Summer!
